Minster monsters (From Living Northeast)

Minster monsters

12:19pm Monday 25th January 2010 in

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York Minster is undergoing a £15m restoration of its East Window. Peta King dons a hard hat to find out what’s going on... and meets some strange creatures on her way to the top.

POISED as if to fly across the rooftops of the city, the tiny stone figure, hardly bigger than a mouse, stares out over 100ft up the face of the East Front of York Minster. Sword drawn, his petulant face has the look of an Oliver Postgate character – a Viking perhaps? Whatever the stonemason’s inspiration, I feel privileged to be so close to the quirky little gargoyle, for I shall be one of the few people ever to come face-to-face with him.

We are standing on the scaffolding surround the Minster’s East Front, taking part in what must be one of the most fascinating building site visits ever.

Having been kitted out with the obligatory hard hats, we, thankfully, are able to take the builders’ lift, saving an energy-sapping climb up several fights of steps for an amazing insight into this major restoration project at Britain’s most visited cathedral.

This is the Stonemasons’ tour, in the York Minster Revealed project, a look at the work of the 20 masons permanently employed at the Minster. It starts in the yard where they demonstrate how the blocks of limestone are cut and carved, and culminates in the climb along the scaffolding to see how the stonework, tracery, gargoyles and grotesques, worn away by the elements, are so expertly replaced.

It’s all been made possible because of a £15m project to restore the Minster’s East Window. Created between 1405 and 1408, it is the largest single expanse of Medieval stained glass in the world. York Glaziers Trust is restoring the Creation and Apocalypse panels and, now, all the panels have been removed and a replica of the window hangs in front on internal scaffolding.

As the restoration has received money from the Heritage Lottery fund, the Minster authorities were charged with making the cathedral more accessible to the public.

Hence the tours.

The Glaziers’ tour takes visitors to the Bedern Chapel, a new workshop for York Minster glaziers. Visits give a unique insight into the work that goes on behind the scenes to restore the Minster’s medieval glass.

To give us an overall view of what’s on offer, we were taken on a taster of the tours by Howard Mosley, from the Minster’s Visitors’ department.

Be warned… you need to be fairly agile and certainly not afraid of heights. And sensible shoes are a must.

Leaving the visitors milling around in the nave, Howard takes us through a private door to climb up and up and up spiralling stone stairs to the bell tower, stopping off at the rather comfortable ringing chamber, fitted out with carpets, chairs and chocolates for the ringers.

The Minster’s most famous bells – Great Peter, which tolls the hours, and Queen Mother – are housed in a separate tower where, curiously, the walls are covered with the graffiti of the vergers and, even more curiously, that of a visiting nun.

Then it’s out onto the parapet of the Minster roof – and this is where you need that head for heights. The views across the city are amazing, but at times the route is a little precarious as you dodge round buttresses, duck under dry risers and watch your footing as you tread up and down the narrowest of spiral stairs.

Two of the highlights are the stonemasons’ loft with its plaster floor, where you can see how the medieval masons made the templates for the original stonework, and the magnificent vaulted Chapter House roof, which was constructed in the 12th Century.

York Minster is one of the 50 attractions to which the York six-day pass gives free access. The new pass, with an additional 20 attractions, comes with a guide book containing maps and attraction information, and is available at hotels and at the city’s Visitor Information centres.

In addition to attractions in the city, including Jorvik, York Dungeon, the Castle Museum and YorkBoat, the pass can take you further afield – to Castle Howard, Harewood House, RHS Harlow Carr, in Harrogate, and Eden Camp.

We stayed at Hotel du Vin York. Situated on The Mount, the ancient south-western approach to the city, a thoroughfare used since the 14th Century, and only ten minutes’ walk from the city centre, it couldn’t be better placed for our visit.

Opened last year, HdV York is a £9m conversion of a Grade II-listed 19th Century house that became an orphanage before being transformed into a 44-bedroom boutique hotel.

It has all the features associated with the HdV brand.

Stylish and unfussy, but with great attention to detail, HdV has the clever knack of making guests feel totally relaxed and yet totally looked-after.

Plus points in the bedrooms are Egyptian cotton bedlinen and pillows that really are comfortable, while bathrooms have monsoon showers and mega baths.

The racing-themed restaurant – a nod here to the nearby Knavesmire – serves bistro-style food, cooked simply and presented without over-embellishment.

And for those who like to smoke, HdV has thoughtfully provided the Cigar Shack – a bespoke cabin in the garden designed by Bothy Lodge, with “warm air curtains”

to keep the open-sided hut cosy in winter. And, yes, they really do work. With a wall-mounted plasma TV and leather armchairs, the lodge has everything you need to enjoy your addiction in comfort.

The following morning, as we drive through the city to the sound of Great Peter tolling the hour from the Minster, I can’t help but think about my little Viking above, destined to keep watch over the city for the next few hundred years.

YORK MINSTER REVEALED TOURS

The Stoneyard. A 90-minute tour that includes the stoneyard, drawing office, masons’ workshop, carvers’ studio and the East Front of the Minster.

The Chapter House Roof and Masons’ Loft. A chance to see the internal structure of the Chapter House, the outside parapet with views over Dean’s Park, and the Masons’ loft.

Early Minster. A tour that explores the passages either side of the Norman crypt and includes crossing the walkway of the Five Sisters Window, 75ft above the floor of the cathedral.

West End and Bell Towers. An exploration of the two western towers and the opportunity to see the bells and how they are operated, as well as a great view from the external west gallery.

More details on 01904-557216 or from yorkminster.org Hotel du Vin York. Tel: 01904-550099; email info@visityork.org or see visityork.org 557350; hotelduvin.com The York Pass. Yorkpass.com For your free guide to where to stay and what to do in York, telephone 01904-550099; email